Bucharest
Sunday = London
Monday = London --> Bucharest
Today = Bucharest
(Tomorrow = Bucharest --> Brasov!)
Hello All, I write to you from the Romanian capital city, Bucuresti! It's, er... nice. Doesn't seem to really have recovered from communism yet, though. I have a picture (that I'll put up later) that sums it all up: nice, old building, flanked by decent modern and ugly crumbling ones. At least the hostel here is nice and homey.
It's a very new experience for me, traveling in a country where neither I nor the people I'm with speak the language. English isn't terribly common here, and it's hard to communicate "we don't understand" with much more than a vacant pleading stare, a shrug, and a shake of the head. From my knowledge of Spanish and French, and The Lonely Planet's guide on Romanian (of which one page is ripped out -- second hand books are lovely!), I can get by enough to find the right way on the metro or point out menu items. But just barely.
Yesterday was a trip and a half. We flew from Luton (London) to Bucharest International Airport, which (I think) is the best (by which I mean most entertaining) airport I've met so far. Disembark the plane on to the two packed shuttle buses, just to drive 50ft. in a semicircle to the one gate terminal. The baggage handlers place your luggage on the carousel outside, just on the other side of the window, then run in and take it off the conveyor belt since there's too much to fit on it all at once. From that point on we began the long wander to our hostel, including plenty of faffing about with the airport buses and a lucky tip from some fellow hostelers.
Today was a grand, self-led walking tour of the city, after adventures with buying tickets at the train station. We pretty much walked Central Bucharest from south to North, starting at the House of the People/Palace of the Parliament. Onwards up through the old quarter (small, windy, crumbling cobblestone streets), into a lovely park with good people watching, then up to Piata Revolutiei with many cool and important buildings. Most interesting in Piata Revolutiei was the Cescu Church, which was gutted during the 1989 revolution. It was left vacant for awhile in remembrance of those who died in the revolution, but now a glass building lives inside of it. (That's really the only way to describe how it looks.) There are still bullet holes in the walls.
Bucharest is an interesting city. If Prague and Budapest are the first steps out of the west, one of our German hostel-mates told us, then Bucharest is the second. I would agree. There's a great disparity between rich and poor here, with a very thin gilding of posh cafes, fancy cars, nice shops, and a Hilton. However, most of the people seem fairly poor, and the city in general is in terrible shape. There are a also a ton of cars here (so lots of smog), though apparently plenty of parking -- sidewalks are not off limits and I've had to dodge more than one car on territory I'd foolishly assumed was mine.
Romanians practice the art of aggressive queuing -- if you're not within eight inches of the person in front of you, you're not in line. Takes some practice, but Clancey showed everyone up by elbowing an old man out of the way at the supermarket.
I've been told by people that Romanians are both very kind and helpful and suspicious. To be fair, we've met with as many smiles as rolled eyes -- at least we're not pissing everybody off. Couldn't even say the same for NYC.
I've been feeling a little conspicuous here, as I'm as tall as most men here and a lot fairer than most. My blonde-counter ratio is running at 13:3 (artificial:natural) even after a full day of walking around the city. Glad I brought my cap! I'll probably be wearing it a lot in the next few days.
So... what's next? Brasov: heart of Romania, Transylvania, and seated near some of the prettiest (still medieval-looking) towns in the country. Or so Lonely Planet says. They've not been wrong so far!
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